Ready to 
A primer on Tequila
Rob Updegrove
August 25, 2009 6:07 PM ET in Life
It doesn't have to be a night of madness...
There’s a myth that tequila causes bad hangovers. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard the line, “I can’t drink tequila, it makes me (insert your favorite bad hangover story here).” This happens for a very specific reason, and that reason has nothing to do with tequila in its pure form. Symptoms such as headaches and vomiting are rare when drinking a good tequila responsibly. So where do these stories come from? To know this, it’s useful to understand what tequila is, as well as the various types and qualities of tequilas.
Tequila is an alcoholic beverage brewed from the blue agave plant, and it is a drink with a rich history. The term “tequila” is strictly regulated by the Mexican government, and has a specific meaning, which defines the beverage’s characteristics.
Tequila originated in the eponymous town in the Jalisco state of Mexico. By nature, all tequila is produced in Mexico, but the government does allow the production of tequila in four other states besides Jalisco. The drink can only be made from the blue agave plant, a desert succulent. Every tequila producer is registered with the Mexican government, and every bottle must carry the NOM (Normal Official Mexicana) number that identifies its registration.
The 100% De Agave label.
Tequila can first be broken up into two distinct categories. The highest quality category is known as “puro” or 100% Blue Agave. Any bottle of this grade will be labeled something like “100% de Agave.” If it doesn’t say “100%” on the bottle it’s definitely not.
There is another grade that can legally be called “tequila”, however. This grade is called “mixto” and by regulation it must be made of at least 51% blue agave. The remaining 49% can be made of just about anything. The most common ingredient is neutral corn spirits, but other flavors and colors can also be used. By law, however, all tequila must be made from 100% natural ingredients.
Blanco tequila is the rawest form of tequila. The flavors of the agave are most evident in this form. Blanco is often used in mixed drinks or taken straight in shot form. Some harsh notes might be detectable in blanco tequilas, often depending upon the filtering that is used by the producer. Blanco is often referred to as “white” or “silver” tequila
Reposado tequila is aged in wooden barrels from 2 months to under one year. These tequilas are slightly smoother and mellower than blancos, but often still contain a good bit of the flavor of the agave. They are considered to be a good balance of flavors between agave and wood, leaving a spirit that is flexible in usage. If I were to have only one tequila on my shelf, it would be a reposado. Reposado is often referred to as either “rested” or “aged”.
Blanco tequila is a clear liquor.
Añejo tequilas are those that are aged longer than one year in wooden barrels. Like a fine bourbon, the flavor of an añejo is complex and rich, and carries the least residual agave flavor. An añejo tequila is poorly suited for mixing, but is best for enjoying neat. Whiskey lovers often gravitate toward the añejos. Añejo is often referred to as “aged” or “extra-aged.”
Another label you may have seen on the shelf is “gold.” Gold tequila is not a regulated form, but is really a marketing gimmick. “Gold” tequila is often just raw blanco, to which the producer has added caramel color and very often a wood extract as well, in an attempt to flavor the final product as if it had been aged in oak barrels. Gold is by nature a mixto tequila, and as a rule I stay away from it. These are almost always a fairly poor quality mixto, and the additives in gold tequila is often the reason for the “tequila hangover” that cause so many people to steer away from the drink.
Añejo tequila is light amber in color.
As a fan of good tequila and also someone who is almost always on a budget, I’ve searched for good tasting tequilas that don’t break the bank. I’ve found a few mixto products that work very well in mixed drinks such as margaritas that not only don’t contain the additives of the gold tequilas and also don’t make the drink taste like something that came out of a slushie machine.
One choice I’m very fond of is called Zapopan Reposado. It is a mixto, but still a true reposado. The producer uses a brew of blue agave and pure cane spirits, then ages the result in oak. The final drink is smooth like a good reposado should be, but still contains true agave flavor. I use Zapopan as my mixer of choice in the margaritas I make at home. It can sometimes be found in liquor stores, and often on the shelves of Trader Joe’s as well. My local TJ’s carries Zapopan for the stunning price of $10 USD per liter.
Reposado tequila often appears only marginally darker than blanco.
A secondary choice that is even more widely available is Sauza Blanco. It can be found in most liquor stores and is made with a double filtering process that creates a product I find very palatable, both for shots and for mixed drinks. The harsh tones are removed, leaving a nice agave taste. If I can’t readily find Zapopan, I’ll use Sauza for making margaritas.
One final tequila product that has been gaining in popularity is the flavored tequila. Flavored tequilas are made with infusions or mixes of other flavorings, to create interesting liquers with an agave base. Coffee flavored tequila in particular became an instant Icrontic favorite during the week of E3. I’ve successfully used it in place of Kahlua in a few recipes.
In short, the notion of tequila as a wicked drink that causes pain and awful hangovers is a rumor that can be dispelled with a little knowledge. Start by trying various tequilas and choose ones that are favorable to your palette, and then you’ll be changing other people’s minds as well. Please let us know in the comments if you’ve put any of this information to good use!
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